“I just wanted to be myself, you know what I mean? I just stir it … the more I stir … in circles … it just …” his sentence drifted off as he was saying this, mesmerized by the custard base moving round and round and round in the stainless-steel pot. He was showing me the first step to creating his own ice cream, stirring a heated mixture of milk, egg yolk, sugar and a few other ingredients.
“Look how beautiful it is,” he smiled.
I go to look over his shoulder, and see a pot of semi-thick, vanilla-colored liquid being stirred.
My own introduction into the world of Laozi Ice Cream was after I was followed by the businesses Instagram account. The profile picture is a portrait of a Chinese philosopher, with a hand edited in holding a waffle cone up to his face, made to look as if the philosopher was eating ice cream. I scroll through the profile, and it’s filled with close up pictures of plastic containers filled with various gelato flavors as well as screenshots of text messages from satisfied customers.
“Three Words. Oh.My.God… AMAZING”
“This.Fuckin. Ice Cream.”
On each container top, in sprawling, unique handwriting are the flavors. You see fun titles such as “Mister Peanut done went Bananas!” “Monkeys be hatin” “Lavender Blackberry” “Strawberry Short bread” written decoratively in marker on each container. And, on the bottom of every container top is a signature “Made with good vibes!!!”
The man behind the frozen treats is Salvatore Caruso (but he goes by Sam). Sam and I were in the same Creative Writing class at Delgado. We sat near each other and bonded over our love of hip-hop. Here and there, we sent each other albums the other might enjoy. It wouldn’t surprise me if he intimidated people. He was big, bearded and didn’t talk a lot. This was offset a bit by the beanies he wore everyday. He had a limp that made it look like he dragged himself everywhere, which I later found out was from a car accident that nearly killed him.
Sam Caruso officially started his ice cream business a few months ago, but has a history of working in New Orleans restaurants, and even went to culinary school.
I spent a few hours with him to see the process and how he operates.
My first question was, “why ice cream?”
“I’ll tell you the truth about me. I used to be a heroin addict. People who do dope always crave sugar real bad. Especially going through withdrawal. I ate ice cream for years and years and years. Blue bell, I ate that everyday. I got sober, quit drinking and using. Got my shit together, started working at local restaurants, and went to culinary school.”
While working at a local restaurant, he was introduced to the world of ice cream. He says he liked to experiment, play around with flavors, and learn about the process of making ice cream. A few months after he left this job, Sam bought a small ice cream maker to begin making his own.
A few months later, Sam went to Puerto Rico for a vacation and was hit and nearly killed while riding his bike. He returned from vacation with medical bills, no job, and not many job prospects. At this point he was making and giving away small batches of ice cream to friends and neighbors. While scrolling through the internet one day he saw a quote about adversity and opportunity that really spoke to him (I asked him what it was, but he can’t remember the exact words and went to look for it a month ago, and couldn’t find it.) This inspired him to put his ice cream business idea into action. He bought a professional ice cream machine with the money from a tax return.
Talking about ice cream, he frequently uses the word “obsessed” and “fixated” to describe his fascination with how to make ice cream that can rival the stuff you buy at stores. Hearing him describe how to prevent water molecules from turning into ice crystals, french culinary terms for ice cream I’ve never heard, or how he’s in the kitchen 7 days a week, sometimes up to 14 hours a day; it’s not hard to believe.
“The other day I woke up around 4:30 am and couldn’t go back to sleep. So I went at 6am to go to Rouses to pick up what I needed. So I started around 6 in the morning, and didn’t stop until around 6 p.m.” “Don’t you get bored, or tired?” I said, as he was in the process of stirring the same pot of liquid for 30 minutes. “Nah, I listen to music. And I drink Yerba Mate.”
“What motivates you to keep doing this,” I asked him.
“I just wanna fucking cook. I used to get yelled at for doing shit my way. The chef at school would take everything I make and just throw it in the garbage, happened more than once” he laughed as he said this.
“I never thought I was capable of running a business.” But here he is, making up to $400 a day selling ice cream from his 40 square foot kitchen (not in profits, his margins are pretty slim, as doesn’t want to raise prices.)
While we were talking, the doorbell rang. It was a customer coming to see if he had any ice cream left.
“I’ll give you a deal. $5 for this quart of strawberry moon pie. There wasn’t enough sugar it in.” The man immediately agreed, and said “I’ll take two.” While one customer left, another pulled up in front of his house and asked “what do you have left?” Sam went out to her car, gave her a quart of birthday cake ice cream, and thanked her for her business.
What makes your product different?
“My custard. You cant fuck with it. I put it up against anybody. Its because of the music, my patience, my passion. It’s like a thing of beauty. I love this, don’t you see beauty in this? The consistency?”
After he finishes stirring and heating the custard, we cool it off by putting the pot in his sink filled with ice and water. “It makes it happy” he says.
The final step is putting the concoction into the ice cream machine, and letting it churn for around 10-15 minutes. If you let it churn for longer, it can become too fluffy and not dense enough.
“You know there’s a law that says to label something ice cream, it must be a certain density?”
“No I didn’t.”
I looked it up when I got home. The FDA states ice cream must weigh more than 4.5lbs per gallon to be considered ice cream. Next time you go to the store to get ice cream, look at all the flavors. You’ll see some labeled “Frozen Dairy dessert” because it doesn’t meet density regulations.
After letting it churn, he offers me an entire quart to try for free. I say I just want a cup.
I must say, this was probably the best chocolate ice cream I’ve ever eaten. The dark chocolate gave it a rich flavor, while the custard base was responsible for the creamy, scrumptious quality.
You can follow Sam on instagram at @laozi.ice.cream. I’m Matt (article and photos) and you follow me on instagram at @thamwtan.
No Chauvinists 
SO. GOOD. The Thai Tea is delicious and the Birthday Cake Batter is the best I’ve ever had. Worth it!!! And just in time for the summer 🙂
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“I used to get yelled at for doing shit my way.”
Love it
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🔥 ice cream. You won’t be disappointed
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Sam is the Chemist and we are the Fiends!!!
Sam’s dedication and passion to cooking is something I’ve had the privilege of witnessing over the past several years.
If you think his ice cream is wonderful, convince him to do the pineapple Fanta Pork Shoulder.
He’s a mensch.
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So inspiring!!
I tried a few flavours in New Orleans and they were all are like wow amazing. (The vanilla literally was like blowing kisses on my taste buds from heaven)
Good job! When can we order to UK?
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The man the myth the cold stone slinging ice cream savior making each pint so good you’ll come back for more.
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I met Sam a while ago on social networks, at that time he was taking his cooking classes, then he had that little accident on his vacation that prompted him more to have his own business, I am so glad to know that he is doing so well, what deserves is a good guy😘😊🙏❤
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I met Sam a while ago on social networks, at that time he was taking his cooking classes, then he had that little accident on his vacation that prompted him more to have his own business, I am so glad to know that he is doing so well, what deserves is a good guy😘😊🙏❤
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Sam’s stuff is legit! My favorite was the Thai Tea ice cream. That’s saying alot because all of them are so damn good. But man, it was so decadent and unique. With the swirls of condensed milk and the creamy Thai Tea flavor… I’m salivating thinking about it right now haha. Please make that one again. I’m not begging… okay yes I’m begging. 🙂
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Oh my God, Sammy, this is the best oracle on what you have created. I am so proud of you, could not stop crying as I read the article. I am so proud of you I can’t say it enough. God has answered my prayers for you, So keep up the good work because this all proves to me how smart and intelligent you really are. Good luck on your new Ice cream pants. I love you mom
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I am so proud of you son. I couldn’t stop crying as I read this article. You are so intelligent and creative, your dad would be so proud of you. You’re amazing and I love you so much. Keep up the great work there’s no telling how far you can go
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“ my custard, you can’t fuck with it!” ❤️❤️❤️ No lies!! Mmmmm. I love Sam’s ice cream. Great article.
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Sam is a great guy & makes hella clutch ice cream🔥..I will always support local business:and will Always support anyone with a dream,who never gives up ;you give me hope and strength that anyone can still have a dream and is able to accomplish anything when u put your heart and love into it
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I met Sam almost 10 years ago on a trip down to NOLA… we became fast friends and have remained in touch ever since. Ice cream has always been a weak spot of mine and I really wish I could taste all the amazingness I see filling my Instagram feed daily, but alas it does not currently ship to Canada 😩😂… hopefully one day! Until that day comes however, I will continue to drool as I scroll and keep Sam and his ice cream at the top of my “must do” list for when I can finally make it back down there!
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My name is Angie. Sam is my friend. He’s been one of my favorite people to recover with. Hes not ducking around with his life. I’m so happy he pushed himself to do what he loves. He inspires me. I guess this should also be about his ice cream. It’s the best I’ve ever had. No shit. My dog mo agrees.
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Sam has really got it all figured out! This is the best ice cream available in New Orleans, also probably the entire planet. I had a quart of the lemon creme flavor available a couple weeks back and could not put it down or share it!
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Great article! His ice cream is mucho good. That boy sentences to drift off when he’s talking. But he’s a good dude. Good vibes.
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Whoa, Laozi Ice cream getting the press it deserves!! Love to see it. Sam is about as cool as his cream and it’s some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had. Keep it churning brother!! LLLIC – long live Laozi ice cream
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This ice cream is hands down the best flavor explosion I have ever had. Fresh ingredients and obviously made with love. Getcha momma and dem some!
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I remember when Sam would talk about making his own Ice Cream. To see his dream and happiness come to fruition is amazing. Very well written article!
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‘Tis the stuff dreams are made of!!! Sam is just good vibes in every way and you can taste those good vibes and love in every quart!
Laozi Ice Cream is the absolute BEST and I’m always excited to see the creative visions Sam cooks up and brings to life!
Everyone needs some Laozi in their life! I have been hooked since my first taste! Every flavor is so damn delicious and a work of art! He uses the freshest ingredients and most divine flavor combinations, it’s hard not to eat the entire quart in one sitting. It’s a flavor explosion of culinary genius and yumminess that brings me back to memories of eating homemade ice cream in my childhood!
This piece is an incredible description of Sam’s journey and his talents! Sam’s ice cream is going to be a New Orleans staple in every household soon and the universe is already making that happen!
Laozi ice cream ….. that’s what’s up!!!
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New customer but he can’t get rid of me if he tried. I got his the cake batter ice cream 2 days ago and it’s already gone. I would be ashamed but it was too good!
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Literally the best ice cream I’ve ever eaten! I love all the creative flavors and combos too. This man definetly is very talented and has a gift! Thank you for sharing your delicious passion for ice cream with the world!
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Beautiful article about the best ice cream I’ve ever had! Made with love for sure.
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I’ve been a loyal customer since the beginning. The ice cream is damn good
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A diamond was once a stone… that was the chat Sammy and I had today in his kitchen. (I call him Sammy because that’s what he called himself back in the old days when we met in high school)
I work down the street so I pop in daily to check out the flavor of the day. Today’s was phenomenal. A Bit Tipsy Cherry Cordial. I call it crack cream because I am addicted to it. ALL OF IT. The Golden Oreo is my favorite. I think about it every day of my life. It’s that good. So proud of you Sammy. Stay under pressure my friend! 🍒
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This is a great article! Laozi ice cream is the absolute best in the city. Thanks for sharing
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🔥great essay
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Damn homie ur really good at this. Keep plugging away! Trust me. Obviously u like writing. Very professional and personal as well. I was concerned with the camera bring in here cuz I didn’t see anything worth shooting and my kitchen is small and a fuckn mess 🙉🤦🏽♂️. Appreciate ya coming out. WELCOME anytime.
@laozi.ice.cream
Sam🍦🐈🤟
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Keep up the great work !!!
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